I remember...

A time when we were nothing but surfers, nothing more, nothing less,
and the rest was clearly of no consequence,
A time when life was exclusively about dropping, again and again, dropping,
Riding and chasing that perfectly rolling wall that wouldn't stop
Rising and breaking inside our hearts.

I remember a time when we were completely consumed by the elements,
When we were savages, unshackled alpha-males, artistic beasts on the loose,
When we fought for self-preservation, spilling blood in utter blindness,
Completely lost to the nature of our moment-by-moment-celebrating rituals,
To the carelessness of our borderline suicidal performances...

I remember the sun, piercing bright sphere, hanging over my head,
Brownish sand, wet and malleable, cold, burning, warm and inviting, beneath my feet,
Mist raising off-shores, and, mess-spreading on-shores,
The ocean stretching as far as the eyes could glimpse,
And our heroes so close and so dearly emulated...

I remember us watching the tides and their shifting, guessing oncoming swells, talking about styles and boards, as if everything mattered,
Even the slightest change in the curve and placement of a finger,
We were perfectionists dealing with unstable of forms...

I remember traveling, preceding the wind, howling fearlessly at the unknown,
Ignoring hunger, laughing at thirst, incorrigible lunatics,
Our belongings left behind, watched over by scheming gulls,
And the shore's ruffians and thieves...

I remember my body bare slipping through the spume, one with creation,
Alive, exhilarated, intoxicated and so deeply inspired.

I remember it all, as if it were this morning, and I know that,
Nothing, nothing... is to ever compare.

Live, be well, and if you have a chance do not squander it.

A drop in a pearly ocean